Maya's Belgrade

July, 2010 -

Being a local and having lived here for 27 years anything I say about Belgrade can sound subjective. But, although it is not my favourite city in the world, I cannot but not love it. And when you love someone or something, it is difficult to be reserved and not try to say all the best.

I will try, as I always do, to give you a picture about my city that will inspire you to visit it.

Belgrade is not a beautiful city, such as Prague, Florence or Paris. Do not expect to see some spectacular sights, magnificent buildings, picturesque sceneries, romantic castles and impressive churches. There are some places worth seeing, of course.

Belgrade was founded by Celtic tribes in 3^rd century BC, then overtaken by the Romans, to be ruled by the Ottoman for 500 years, Austrians, etc. It has risen from the ashes like a Phoenix for 38 times. Such a various mix of culture and influences left a very distinct trace. There is The Kalemegdan fortress, rising above the confluence of the Sava and the Danube which was the inspiration for the ancient name of the city – Singidunum Although there are no scientific evidence for that, according to one version “singi” means “confluence” and “dunum” means “town, settlement”. The Fortress was mostly influenced by the Ottomans and is today “Belgrade’s Central Park”. It is located in the very center of the city and is the favourite place of old people who are keen on chess, young and old couples strolling holding hands, enthusiastic foreigners with cameras and everyone who wants to escape from the concrete jungle.

The path to Kalemegdan takes you through the main pedestrian zone, the promenade, Knez Mihailova Street. Only when I started looking at the city with the eyes of a tourist, did I realize how majestic the buildings in this street were. There are splendid façades, lovely balconies and small ornamental statues. At the center of the street, there is a fountain/ tap with fresh, ice-cold water, the perfect refreshment at Belgrade’s summer 35°C. Moreover, if you are a shopaholic, you will find this street the Mecca, because all the main fashion stores are located here. Also, fans of eccentric and big hand-made jewelry will be able to find some interesting pieces for less than 5€.

In my opinion, the most prominent hallmark of Belgrade is St. Sava’s Temple. Named after the youngest son of the first Serbian king from 12^th century, who went on to become a priest, founded first Serbian schools, obtained the autonomy of Serbian Orthodox Church and was declared a Saint after the death, the Temple is the second largest Orthodox edifice in the world. Raised at the place where, according to the legend, the Ottoman burnt the remaining of St. Sava, at the heart of Vracar municipality, it overlooks Belgrade, shines upon it with its whiteness and protects it. The white marble of the walls is especially distinctive at night, when the Temple is illuminated - it radiates and can be seen from almost every part if the city. When you stand in front of its 79 m high dome, it has almost a soothing effect, reminds you just how small you are and you cannot help but feel a kind of awe. However, entering the Temple is somewhat disillusioning since it has not been finished yet and looks like a construction side. Nevertheless, there are some frescos and mosaics worth seeing, as well as the look at the highest point of its massive dome from the center of the Temple.

All the above-mentioned as well as Bohemian zone called Skadarlija, Zemun, part of the city across the Danube in Austro-Hungarian style, the newly built tower at Avala Mt., numerous other churches, Kosutnjak and Zvezdara forests and various other places of culture are all important and interesting but are not Belgrade’s hallmarks. Belgrade is not most famous for something which you can see – but for something you can experience – the entertainment. To be more precise – the nightlife.

I cannot determine exactly why this aspect is so important for Belgraders or when Belgrade became the party capital of the Balkans (maybe even Europe). Even in the notorious times of the isolation of the 90s, the time of wars and sanctions, the locals used to go out and have fun. It may be some sort of a safety valve for all the bad and difficult things people experienced. And it has never lacked the variety – whether you are a fan of techno, rock, house, metal, Latino or Serbian folk music, you can very easily find your place in the city. Of course, after the sanctions, when the standard was so-and-so increased the nightlife has started to flourish. Foreigners often ask me why most Belgrade cafes, bars, restaurants or clubs are so posh and extravagantly furnished and why people dress up so much when they go out. Again, it may be the need to go to beautiful places and to look beautifully so as to compensate for a lack. Whatever the answer is, one thing is a fact – if you are into clubbing, Belgrade will not disappoint you.

The tradition of coffee drinking is quite prominent and important in Belgrade. People will invite you out for a coffee at any time of the day, but it does not necessarily mean you will have a cup of coffee. Likewise, do not be surprised to see fancy dressed people drinking an espresso at a café at 11pm. It’s quite a common thing here. Belgraders love cafes. If there is a café on the ground floor of a building you can be sure that its residents won’t bother having a coffee or a drink at their homes. People like to be served. Going out to a café with a friend, even with a family member, is the way to relax and catch up on with them. Most Belgrade bars and cafes are grouped by locations: the ones in Obilicev venac (near Knez Mihailova St.), at Ada lake, in Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra St., in Strahinjica Bana St. (aka Silicon Valley), etc. Which one you will chose depends on various factors: the time of the day, who you are going with, the occasion, amount of money, your style, the reason why you are going out at all. For example, if you want to have a chat with your best friend or watch a football game, one of many cafes at Obilicev venac would be the best choice. If you want to have a drink, overlooking the lake and maybe even sunbathe a little, go to one of the beach bars at Ada lake.

If you want to show off your newest dress, see some posh people and be seen yourself – then the Silicon Valley is the place for you. The street got the nickname according to rich people who go there and the girls with silicon enhancements that go with them (when the trend became popular is still a mystery to me!). During the day, the cafes and the people seen at this location do not stand out. But, when the night falls, things are quite different – all of a sudden there are tough looking guys in Ferraris, BMWs, Mercedes Benz, Porches, girls who look as if they had come out a Vogue cover, elegant and trendy clothes that some foreigners would only wear for a wedding and of course – high heels. Remember this – if you are a girl, high heels are inevitable, a must. You do not go out in flat shoes or flip-flops.

One of my favourite bars in the area is Insomnia. I love the place because of the service (the most charming and the most polite waiters in the city), the cocktails (made only of the best booze) and the music (there’s even a DJ). Some of the people I took there told me they had never seen so many beautiful, shiny people at one place. They wandered why all the girls wore fancy clothes. Is there a reason to that? No. It’s simple, when you want to look good and wear something nice, but you do not have an occasion, and if you want people to look at you and admire you – just go to Insomnia. Nobody will think you’ve overdone it. However, do not go if you want to talk with a friend – the music is usually too loud and there’s too much distraction – Insomnia is the place to look around. Superficial – yes. Boring – definitely no. Even if you’re not into these kinds of places, they are unique and unlikely to be found anywhere else. So, when you come to Belgrade do not miss a chance to go to a Silicon Valley café/ bar. Who knows – you might even like it.

If, on the other hand, you would like to have a quality time with your friends, relax and enjoy the sight of the Danube and have quite delicious fast food some of the rafts near “25 Maj Sport Center”, very close and yet, so distant from the center, will suit you. “Wooloomooloo” would be a good choice – suitable in winter time, too, but definitely more enjoyable in summer –comfy chairs in the shade, very close to the river, various menu with ice-delicacies, club sandwiches and savoury / sweet pancakes are ideal for a lazy Sunday afternoon, in you look for to escape the heat of the center.

As the name says, “Supermarket Concept Store”, this place is more than a regular café. Also located in the “Silicon Valley” Street, previously it was a supermarket, but even now, it has partially stayed one – it is a spacious area, decorated in a futurist-minimal style, offering a variety of interesting gadgets (a rainbow maker), useful and decorative kitchen instruments (cutlery in shape of hearts, stars, etc), books in English, CDs, designer shoes and watches, clothes made by local, young fashion designers, etc. It also includes a hairdresser, a flower shop, a spa, and, of course, a café/ restaurant. Many exotic dishes can be found on the menu – sushi, Asian and Italian cuisine, expensive wines, tasty smoothies, interesting cocktails and delicious desserts. The fact that totally distinguishes this café from the others is that it is relaxed but trendish, modern and popular – there is an air of typical young, busy, urban, successful Belgraders, who seem not to be interested in what they are wearing, (although it is always smart and expensive) and, at the same time, it is greatly visited by foreigners with sophisticated taste and businessmen mostly due to a free wi-fi connection and the healthy menu. When I enter “Supermarket” I think “Sex and the City”.The prices are average, many a bit more on the expensive side. Once or twice a month, the place hosts gigs, fashion shows, product promotions. The proof how “different” and contemporary this place is, is that it is dog-friendly, which is very, very rare for Belgrade. There is also a big, sun-umbrellas covered terrace, ideal for lazy summer afternoons. ( www.supermarket.rs )

There are very few pubs in Belgrade, but my favourite one is indisputably “Black Turtle Pub”. There are several of them, but the one closest to the center is located near the Kalemegdan Fortress, in Kosancicev Venac Street. The thing that makes it unique are flavored beers which are served – blueberry, forest strawberry and lemon. This is another place that literally everyone I have taken there likes. Not so much because of the delicious beer, but due to the entire atmosphere of the place – relaxed, casual, easy-going – a total opposite to Silicon Valley places. It’s usually on my agenda for relaxing Sunday evenings, when I want to have good beer and hear and tell all the gossips and events from a wild Saturday night. It’s great both in summer and winter time and, fortunately for all girls, mostly visited by men! ( www.theblackturtle.com )

And now we’re coming to the most important part – clubbing. Being the party capital, the city offers various parties on almost every day of the week – however, Friday and Saturday are peak times. As I mentioned before, fans of all types of music will surely find their own place, though, if you’re a fan of electronic, mostly house music, then the crazy time is guaranteed.

Belgrade clubs are divided by seasons, to winter ones and summer ones. One important thing you need to know if that almost all Belgrade clubs are quite small. The reason is not the lack of empty places, but the fact that the crowdier a club seems, the more people will want to get it – the longer the queue outside, the more popular the club is. Simple.

One of the most popular clubs, especially interesting to foreigners, but not my favourite, is definitely “Mr. Stefan Brown”. Named by a “mysterious” Mr. Brown, the club has been the second home of Belgrade’s shiny, fancy people for a long time. Most clubs are popular only for a season or two, but not this one. Located on the 9^th floor of a building, which can be reached only by an elevator that opens right into the club, the glass walls offer a magnificent view on the Government building and Belgrade Central Station. One of its characteristics is definitely a long bar, which stretches through the club – there are not seats or VIP booths here – the best place is at the bar. Seductive barmen will offer all kinds of cocktails, but not in a dull, ordinary way – one of them will probably climb on the bar and pour cocktail in your mouth from a plastic tube. Or they place a series multi-coloured shot drinks on the bar, sprinkle it with sugar or cinnamon and set the entire bar on fire. All in all, everything revolves about the bar – it is a place to put your drink on, to recline on, to lick a cocktail from and, naturally, to dance on. When the amount of alcohol in your blood increases and the atmosphere gets hotter, the madness starts. All of a sudden, you’ll see random girls being pulled up on the bar by the barmen, sprayed with water or foam, pieces of clothes will fall off, music will get louder. Barmen will participate, climbing on the bar themselves, jumping like monkeys from one side of the bar to another, offering you more and more drinks. The party here lasts until the dawn and one of the most popular nights is Monday, which is specific for “VIP parties” – more or less (un)known celebrities serve your drinks and money is raised for charity. Who says there’s not a good side of a sin?

So, if you want to experience a wild night in MSB, remember few facts: if you do not have a reservation for a bar place, you will be pushed by the crowd all night long, which can be extremely annoying. Dress up nicely, because if the bouncers do not like you’re style – you’ll stay out. Get drunk – it’s the only way to fit in. And one tip for girls – the less clothes (even when it’s -15°C outside) the better.

Another popular winter place is Plastic/ Mint. It is situated in the basement of Faculty of Mining and Geology in the center of the city and is open only on Fridays and Saturdays. The type of music is the same as in most clubs – house, but from time to time it hosts international DJs which is the only time when there is an entrance fee. Since the entrance to most clubs in free, reservation is obligatory. However, if you also want to have a table or a booth, then you have to be prepared to buy at least one bottle of vodka/ tequila/ whiskey, etc. The place is interesting because there are 2 clubs in the same place. Lovers of commercial house music and dancing will enjoy in Plastic, while the ones who prefer a more relaxed atmosphere and quieter music will find Mint better – you can always “walk around”, spending some time in Plastic and some time in Mint.

“Tube” is surely the place that tourists love most, because it is quite spacious and unusual. As the name suggests, it looks like a tube and it is divided into several areas – there is the dance floor, the bar-room and a room with seats, where the music is always a little quieter, so it’s ideal for mingling and chatting. Wide screens showing abstract and avant-garde videos and walls of glass and mirror give this club the “spaceship” feeling and I was also told by some Brits that it reminded London clubs. It is a bit posh, but not in a bad way and the visitors are mostly 25+. No reservation is necessary, but you might have to queue. Although the club is officially opened at 12am you should not go before 2am and you definitely should not leave before 5am. ( www.thetube.rs )

The most luxurious and high-class club in Belgrade is definitely “Magacin” (Warehouse). As the name suggests, it is located at the bank of the Sava River, in old warehouses, which were turned into an ostentatious club. The prices are over the top, the entrance is guaranteed only if you had previously reserved a table (with a bottle of booze, of course) and if you are expensively dressed. The “face control” in front of the club is rigorous and not even a group of 5 good-looking girls can enter if they do not satisfy the scrutinizing eye of the main bouncer. If you are wearing typical touristy clothes, and do not have a reservation do not even bother trying to enter this place. If you are lucky, and you are let in without a reservation, make sure you have at least 20€ to spend, because the prices are ridiculously expensive. Moreover, this is a place for posturing, not dancing, so do not expect to dance all night long. Just put on your nice, expensive clothes, look totally bored (because boredom is a sigh that you are so rich that nothing can draw your attention any more),look down on everyone and you’ll fit in.

In the last 2-3 years, live gigs have become increasingly popular in Belgrade – non-affirmed 5-6 member bands, usually with female lead singers, that sing popular music – rock, pop, Latino, house, mainstream hits, etc. The most popular is definitely Macao Band, while my choice would be The Magic Beans. They usually play at Club “Scandal” on Saturdays. The set list is long and you could rarely hear them playing the same songs every weekend. In the summer time, I suggest going to “Bitef Art Café” , because different bands are playing all the time and they’re extremely good! These kinds of events are more relaxed, you don’t have to dress up too much, the prices are acceptable and good atmosphere is guaranteed, especially if you like dancing. If you have 2 weekends to spend in Belgrade, definitely visit one of these gigs at least one night.

Regarding some underground clubs, I am not an expert, really. Though, I know that if you are fond of metal/ gothic/ hard core music, “KST” is popular. It is located in the basement of Technical University and is a total dive. There is a small entrance fee, around 1€ and the drinks are cheap too. No need to mention that the only dress code is – do not wear anything nice. ( www.kst.etf.rs )

As for summer clubs, “splavs”, that is, rafts, are the best option. There are a lot of them, mostly on the Sava River and they are reserved for urban house music, while the ones at the Danube, near Hotel “Jugoslavija” are for the ones who are keen on Serbian live music and are even open during the winter season.

Of many “splavs” at the Sava, I can only separate one – “Sound’– it was the first one that opened, in 1994 and has always been the best place for non-commercial, but still popular, house music. The raft overlooks Belgrade Fortress and the view is especially magnificent in the dawn. The reason this is the only summer club I visit is the music, in the first place. The club sometimes hosts international DJs, and the entrance is usually free of charge. The place has its groovy-urban-chic charm, there is something about it that differentiate it from other “splavs” at this area. Having been a regular member there for more than 3 years, I’ve got to know the waiters, the DJ, the bouncers, even the manager of the club. It’s the place that all of the people I took there loved. So, if you are in Belgrade in summer, do not go anywhere else – come to “Sound” and you’ll definitely love it at the first sight. Another reason why this place is so loved by Belgraders is that you can wear what you like. If you feel like dressing up, you can do it, if you feel like going in a pair of jeans, a T-shirt and flat shoes, you can do it, too. However, tourists can always be recognized -by wearing flip-flops. So, dress nicely if you want to blend in. (www.belgradesound.com)

Nearby, there is an old freight ship, called “Povetarac” (Breeze). It is loved by tourists, because there is no dress code (you’re free to wear flip-flops) and it offers alternative music, such aS drum-and-base, hip-hop, indie etc. It is also open in the winter time; however, it is in the inside of the ship and is very stuffy. In the summer time, the party is on the deck and I guess this is what makes it so attractive and unique. The view is naturally outstanding and the prices are low.

Some other popular places in the summer are hundreds of clubs/bars at Ada Lake. They offer various kinds of music, ranging from Latino, Serbian folk music to the inevitable house. The good side is that they are all next to each other, so it’s easy to “club hop” and the entrance is free of charge. On the other hand, it might be difficult to find a parking space or to get there by bus after 12 o’clock. Unlike Sound, which is visited mostly by 25+, Ada bars are loved by younger people. However, if you are a fan of loud music beach parties, give Ada a go.

There are also some cocktail bars I’d like to mention. For example, “Bar Central” or “Informbiro” which are situated near Knez Mihailova Street. The charming and flirtatious waiters will offer various cocktails according to their recipe and will make them in front of you, boastfully flipping bottles in the air, juggling the glasses, garnishing them with cherries or cream. Another popular summer cocktail bar is “Crveni Petao” (Red Rooster), almost on Knez Mihailova Street itself. It’s very popular with Belgrade “elite” and many celebrities can often be seen. It is literally located on a small ‘island” in the center of the street, overcast by dense treetops. It is a bit ostentations and pricey but unusual and tasty cocktails will make up for it.

I came to the end of my offer. There are, of course, thousands other places I could mention, but this is a short, personal selection of places I like and that my foreign friends like. I was recently told by a foreigner who lives here that Belgrade nightlife was good, but overrated. He might be right – everybody has different taste and preferences. Nevertheless, if you are keen on café-cruising or bar-hopping and if you like exuberant, loud, fancy, pretentious, luxurious, crowdie but above all, positive energy and atmosphere places and where people are always in the mood for partying, do visit Belgrade. If you are even so lucky as to stumble upon me and I offer you to be your clubbing hostess, then Belgrade will definitely be a place you will gladly and impatiently visit again.