Tuesday, August 31, 2010

A Serbian film

Wednesday, 1 am.- Despite all the warnings, recommendations not to watch it under any conditions, I decided to be open-minded and brave and watch “A Serbian film” anyway. And it stirred me some much and so deeply that I have to write about it right now, although it’s 1am. Who could sleep after watching something like that anyway??
The movie is brutal, it’s hard, it’s sick, it’s complex, but most of all, the movie is simply SAD and touching. I cannot stop thinking about it, knowing it’s a movie and that it’s not real, but I want to magically teleport myself in it and make it different. I felt such compassion much for the main characters that I want to warn Milos to get the hell out of the country before he’s approached by Vukmir. Yes, I am that deeply touched.

I understand “what the director wanted to say” with the movie itself – our, Serbian, society is being humiliated, abused, raped, beaten up, slaughtered, drugged, killed. We are all Milos, trying to make the ends meet, struggling to stay alive. The authorities are Vukmir and his allies who molest this people so badly, we could compare it to raping. If we accept it, we’re going to suffer heavy consequences which will drive us mad and there will be no way out. I agree with the director that we are generally blind for the evil – we’d rather close our eyes and pretend evil does not happen. So, since all other signs and proofs of that abuse would not work, the director decided to exaggerate it fiercely and bizarrely – to make us think about it, wanted or not, after we see the film. I think this is the point of the movie – to FORCE you to think and react, in order not to end up like Milos, in a metaphorical way though.

However, I still have not been able to understand why it is tagged “Serbian”. In the most difficult, shocking, stomach-churning, painful, tear-jerking and heart-breaking scene, the crazy director in the movie (not the real director, Srdjan Spasojevic), says “There you go, a real Serbian family”. From the movie we realize he is an orphan and thus despises all mothers who abuse or have abandoned their children. His jealousy and pain might be the reason to show a real family as twisted psychos, who do not deserve to live. He feels an urge to revenge to all mothers who had ever molested their children. He is a classic example of mentally ill serial killers that we’ve seen in so many, mostly American. But, again, why Serbian movie? If, on the other hand, the director wanted to slam us in the face, making us aware of the problem of trafficking, where women often end up in sick porn industry, where men rape and eventually kill them, it happens elsewhere in the world, not just here. And I DO NOT want to think that it happens in the same extent to which it is presented it the film. Do things presented in the movie really happen??? Does the movie represent Serbian living, which is difficult, stressful, twisted and does it mean there is no way out, no help, but to commit a suicide? This movie left such a scar on my mind and heart, that I don’t know if I’ll ever be the same, if I’ll ever think the same. I guess I might be able to stop thinking about it when/ if I figure out why it is called “Serbian”.

I might be able to discover it in the morning, since my body is sleeping, although my mind is struggling. Maybe the solution will come right up, when I sleep on it. IF I am able to sleep at all.

Wednesday, 2:24pm – I hardly slept. I did not dream about it, however, I woke up 3-4 times a night, with the scenes from the movie on my mind and the lingering question “Why Serbian movie, why Serbian movie, what’s the point of the last raping scene, etc…?”. My mind refused to think about anything else and it’s still struggling. I am trying to think of some nice things, but it is not working. I feel as if the movie was real and as if I were a cousin of the main characters. I feel the pain and sorrow, as if I had really lost someone I love dearly.

If Spasojevic really wanted to leave us dumbfounded and gaping, well, he certainly achieved that. I’ve been wondering all day if it is possible that such things really happen. Is it possible there are people who are THAT twisted, sick and demented? Are there really poor girls who accept to appear in porns, not knowing they would be actually be raped and brutally murdered in the end? I guess I’l never find out.

Nevertheless, I do not repent for having seen it. I might even see it again. I am glad a movie finally managed to make me think.

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Jogging and horny milking cows

Ever since mid-May, I have taken up running at an open-air sports center in my neighbourhood. This routine has become an essential part of my weekly agenda and I try to accomplish it, at least twice a week. I go there by car, put my earpieces on and my old iPOD in my pocket, turn up Guns’n’Roses at loudest and run, run, run for one hour. After that, although I look terrible, sweaty and smelly, I feel so invigorated and energetic that I could climb a mountain.

The sports center is a huge park, with several tennis courts, around which is a trim track, 250-300m in circumference. There are also basketball courts, football pitches, swimming pools, fitness equipment, monkey bars, swings, ice-cream wagon and so on. The best thing about it is that there is a lot of greenery – huge linden trees surround the trim track and especially after the rain the sweet scent of the trees, along with fresh air make exercising even more enjoyable. The entire sports centre is a little oasis of green and no wonder that it is almost always crowded. Sometimes running seems like a hurdle race because there are so many people around, you literally wish you could jump over them. From the day one, I realized that what makes the entire atmosphere so special is that there are people of all ages – little babies in prams, toddlers whose idea of fun is to unexpectedly jump in front of you so you almost knock them down, teenager girls who are there mostly to check out on young sportsmen puffing and sweating, business people who are looking for a way to get rid of stress, little old ladies who walk step by step in their funny slippers, professional body builders who want to show off their perfect bodies, etc. All in all, a wonderful diversity that creates a genuine sport-like atmosphere and makes you want to stay there as much as possible.



Although when I’m running I don’t see anyone else ( except from myself on a huge stage performing “You could be mine” with Axl Rose!), I could not help but not noticing that some people were looking at me, especially because my running shorts tend to, sort of, shrink due to excessive sweat. I tried to fix it, pulling it down, but then realized I was causing even more attention. When I turn up the music, I feel invisible (like in that movie with Adam Sandler, when the kid puts on sunglasses and is convinced no one can see him) and then don’t care either who’s watching me, or about the portion of my bare skin which is being stared at. I am there to run, to do something nice for myself and I honestly do not care if someone is going to think something else. After all, it’s not my fault that the fiber the shorts are made of shrink. My motto has always been “Run and let run”. All the people are there for one thing, so I don’t mind what someone else is wearing, if they wear anything at all.

However, yesterday evening, I could have been stark naked, in high heels and a whip in my hand and shouted “Get on, boys” – no one would have noticed me. The reason was a middle-aged lady, in a pair of shorts even shorter than mine, that literally, but LITERALLY was “eaten up” by her HUGE ass, a short T-shirt not covering her stomach at all and barely covering her hanging tits. Now, as long as a man or a woman looks great, it does not matter what they wear. Even if a woman is 50 if she has a great body, I wouldn’t have anything against if she had come naked. If I looked like Madonna, I wouldn’t wear any clothes at all! But, the above-mentioned lady is nothing like Madonna! She might be a bit younger, though, maybe in her late 30s, say 36-37, but she should be fined for showing up at the sports center, in front of all that children, old people, young people, dressed like that. She is tall, but equally fat. Her flabby, fat stomach, with a tacky navel pierce was bulging, looking quite dreadful. I have never seen one, but I guess that middle-aged actresses for “adult movies” look like that! I could not stop but starring – and I never stare – not even at a young, sexy topless boxer, warming up, jumping over a rope! Actually, everybody else was starring, too, in shock and disbelief. The most shocking thing, however, was that she was there with a baby in a pram that she left beside the track, while she was jogging – jogging my ass, because she was only there to draw attention of the single daddies, who were drooling over her! I never had a bigger desire to tell someone they should learn to behave in accordance with their age. Not only was she dressed like a pornstar, but she neglected the baby, too!! When I finished my running, she had gone home, so I did not see if someone had “picked” her or she left home empty-handed!


I though I had seen all, really. There were some quite interesting examples there and I have never given a damn. Hey, this is a free country, everyone has the right to wear what they want and to come to a sports center for all the reasons but sports. But, should this be allowed?

Again, the target of my rage is not the fact that she was wearing fewer clothes than a typical “Freestyler” (a famous night club) girl, but the fact she left a baby, in a pram, in order to pretend to run. If she were 20 and with perfect body, I would probably react the same. But, she is closer to 40 and she resembles a milking cow. Sorry, a horny milking cow!

If I see her again, I am probably going to report her, for disturbing public peace and order.

Monday, August 23, 2010

The parade we need

September 2009 - Before I start I would like to point out that what you’re about to read (or not) has absolutely nothing to do with politics or politicians. I do not belong to any political party or organization. I want to express how I feel from a view of an ordinary citizen of Belgrade.

Firstly, I can’t but not start from the so- much- mentioned Gay Parade, that is, its cancellation. Do I have anything against gay population? No. I know some pretty awesome gay people and I have nothing but the best opinion of them. Do I have something against the Parade? No, I don’t. Why? Because it is in Serbian Constitutional right that every free citizen has a right to organize a peaceful gathering in the city and everyone has the right to attend one, as long as they do not harm anyone or do not destroy public property. Let me explain why I was angry, disappointed and sad that the Parade was cancelled – not because I wanted to go, but because violence and nationalism have prevailed over a citizen right! There’s a pro-nationalistic organization whose members have been gathering and protesting in the very heart of Belgrade every day for maybe a year now. Do I have anything against them? No. It’s their choice and their right. They do not harm anyone; they do not destroy the city. They are trying to achieve their goal by the means they consider the suitable ones. So, if they are allowed to protest every day, why can’t the gays be allowed to express whatever they want just one day in a year? But, do I think that the Pride parade was a good idea at the moment? No. Because some other things have to be dramatically rooted out first.

Now, this leads to the core of the problem and my bitterness. Why does the Government allow a group of aggressive hooligans, who do not have any goal, but to get rid of their negative energy by beating someone up or breaking the window panes of the shops to prevail? More importantly, why do WE, the free citizens of Belgrade, allow that?

Last week brought us nothing but embarrassment. First, there were so many calls for terrorism, aggression and blood shed against the gays. Second, two French tourist who were watching a match in a local pub were beaten up so badly that they ended up in E.R. and one of them had to be operated twice. It is said in the papers today that one of them is still in critical condition. Yesterday, an Australian tourist was also battered, while walking peacefully with his friends through the main park in Belgrade, the pride of us Belgraders, after buying some souvenirs. Not to mention that he did not come here to support the Parade, but to attend the wedding of his fellowman who married a local girl.

And again, for God knows which time, we sent yet another bad picture of ourselves to the world. Again, the image the world has of us is of blood-thirsty, nationalistic, barbarians who attack and beat up poor tourists who contributed to our economy by visiting our country. And, what about the foreigners who are absolutely in love this city? Will some interview my friend Clarissa, an American, who has been in Belgrade for 5 times in less than 2 years because she thinks that people here are friendly and cool and because she loves the city? Of course they won’t. Will someone hear the case of Pete, an Englishman, who’s moved to Belgrade because he considers it the “safest city in Europe” and because he has met super cool people here? No, they won’t. Will someone ever hear about my friends, Sotiris and Alexis, who consider Belgrade their home? Will someone hear about me and some people I know who have been promoting Belgrade in the best possible ways and who have hosted dozens of people and showed the read Serbian hospitality? No. They will only hear the stories of the poor Frenchmen and the Australian who came here with high expectations and ended up in E.R.

As CS Ambassador of Belgrade, my duty is to promote my city and present it in the best possible way. And I have been fulfilling my task more than dutifully. I can’t even remember how many times I have told people:” This is the coolest, the craziest, the liveliest, the SAFEST, and the FRIENDLIEST city in Europe! You don’t know what you are missing if you don’t experience Belgrade!” And what do I tell them now? What am I going to say to my friend, Deniss from Estonia, whom I have been convincing to come here for 2 years? He’s due to come on 20th October and my promise to him was that he would have the time of his life here. Now, I am not sure about that. Because, if I can’t guarantee his safety in the centre, how can it be the time of his life? I’ve been assuring my co-workers, from Myanmar, that nothing bad could ever happen to them here. I probably look ridiculous now. I am embarrassed, not of my city, but of the minority who’s impairing my city’s good name and reputation.

3 days ago, a hooligan threw a torch in a bus full of passengers and an innocent girl got severe burnings. Yesterday, I accidentally got on a bus full of football supporters. They were singing, shouting, smoking, drinking beer, hitting the roof of the bus. And everyone else was just watching. The irony of it? The oldest was maybe 18! Who is performing intimidation over Belgraders? Kids. Immature, rude, violent brats, who are not afraid of anyone, not even police. What I would like to know is, where does all this anger come from? I grew up in the 90s, the most difficult, crime-ridden, years and yet, I’ve stayed normal as well as the majority of my generation. I am sure that the present group of 15-17-year olds grew up in far better conditions and they are unbelievably screwed up, regardless of the sex.

I am angry because we are unable to confront such a group of youths. I am angry because I have to be afraid every time I run into them. I am angry because I have to look at them destroying my city and restrain myself from saying anything. I am angry because have to take a walk with my guest from abroad with the fear that someone may attack us if they hear us speaking English.

People say that we should stand up the ones we are afraid of. But, is that really possible? If the police are unwilling and unable to do something about it, to protect us, how can we protect ourselves? Most sensible people will rather stay out of any kind of an argument or a fight. It’s quite normal, because they do not want to risk being hurt. But, if we continue to stay out of it, we will always be intimidated. The question that I am trying to get is: how do we confront it?

Another thing I wanted to mention is so-called “patriotism” that the hooligans and ultra- nationalistic organizations are so proud of. The Wikipedia definition of the word is: “Patriotism is love of and/or devotion to one's country”. Those people are NOT patriots because they don’t love their country. Otherwise, they would respect it and would not dishonour it. They would not make their co-citizens embarrassed and scared. The patriots are my friends Kika, Vesna and Miroslav who give a respectful, clean and friendly image of Serbia to the world. They are not less Serbian because they have traveled so much and met so many people. On the contrary, they are far more Serbian that any of the vandals will ever be!

Furthermore, I want to make it clear to all true sport supporters that I do differentiate between them and the ones whose only desire is physical abuse. Out basket ball players, swimmers, water polo players and all others are the one who make us proud to be Serbian. Sport ≠ violence and the ones who promote aggression have no right to call themselves football, basketball or any sport supporters.

Some will say that I am pessimistic and that I’m exaggerating. They are right. Although, I have always been the one who was never afraid, now I am. Recent events have made me wonder whether this really is a safe city. However, I can’t and I don’t want to stay blind and deaf to the injustice.

I know that my voice will not make a difference. But, many people’s voices can make it. We, at least, have witnessed it so many times. Let there be a parade in Belgrade – a parade of the true Belgraders! A parade of the people who will say NO to the SAVAGERY and YES to PEACE, of the people who truly love this city and this country. I want a parade which will not have an attribute such as, “gay”, “patriot”, ‘democratic”, “nationalistic”, etc. I want a parade with the slogan “Peace, love and understanding” (I know it sounds like a cliché, but what the heck?!? ). Because, if we love and understand, if we are peaceful and happy, nothing else matters.

Yanin and the best weekend in Belgrade

March, 2010 -The best things usually come unexpectedly and spontaneously. However, when Yanin told me she was going to visit me at the weekend, being a planning maniac, I immediately started thinking where to take her out. I think I have a very important role and obligation when I promise someone that Belgrade is the best place in the world for partying. The person who I promise this to comes to Belgrade with high expectations, I guess, and I consider it my duty to reach his/her demands. This is sometimes very stressful, because I feel responsible if anything goes wrong, even if it does not depend on me at all, such as the train being delayed, dreadful weather, somebody’s impolite comment or the worst of all nightmares – a party falling through.

I have several “tested” places, which never let me down, when it comes to my foreign friends: my second home, Insomnia, which impresses my guests, although it is specific in a very unusual and sometimes even grotesque way (usually on for Saturdays nights); Black Turtle Pub, with its world-famous-because-of-me blueberry beer and quite a different atmosphere than at Insomnia (perfect on Sunday evenings); Club Sound, with groovy music and shiny people, unfortunately opened only during summer. However, the fun percentage also depends on lots of exterior factors that I cannot possibly change, even if I had the influence of the President. That is why I try to plan what I can to the last detail, in order to avoid the risk of failure. For Yanin, I planned Friday night out at Plastic club, but I made a crucial mistake – I forgot to check the music schedule myself and instead relied on what I hear from some well-informed-party-people :/

So, Yanin arrived on Friday evening and she became a part of my running-I-am-late hysteria instantly. I hardly welcomed the girl properly when I forced her into a cab and told the driver to “step on it” because I was late for – my manicurist appointment. The hysteria weakened when we got to Sandra’s salon, where she relaxed us with her easy-goingness and sense of humor. We talked about nails, fashion, boys, gossips, Lady Gaga (the most important factor of Yanin’s and mine friendship!) and Sandra even did Yanin’s nails free of charge to show her the genuine Serbian generousness and hospitality. From the salon, we went to my place where my mum (of course, as told by me 4 days before) welcomed us with warm proja (corn bread with cheese) and tomato soup. It was a real pleasure to see Yanin enjoying the food and I think my mum glowed with satisfaction and pride. After the dinner, we got ready, called for a cab and headed for Plastic. That’s then the first incident started – of course, you’re already guessing, the reason was the bastard cab driver.. However, I will not waste time talking about totally unimportant people.

We got the Plastic and there was another annoying surprise – there was a DJ from abroad performing that night and there was an entrance fee. This is not really unusual in clubs abroad, but it is considered as a perfect insult in Belgrade. Add the over-the-top price for a wardrobe and you are already a bit cranky. And then – another shock – instead of popular house I expected, the DJ spun some electro- house thing and I was already thinking where to go next. Fortunately, Yanin loved it and we both lightened up when we realized we were surrounded by lots of sexy guys who seemed they were having the time of their lives. The music got better after a while so we started dancing and I was happy for not deciding to go somewhere else. The funniest part of the evening was when we were approached by three hot guys, unfortunately, 10 years younger than us on average! What really surprised me was the way they were persistent and almost a bit pushy. Not a sign of shyness, hesitation or reservation, unlike guys who are 10 years older than them. Actually, I had troubles to shake them off; they literally hardly let us leave the club! Finally, we got on the cab at around 4 a.m. and giggling like two teenagers agreed it was a great night out, after all.


I planned to take Yanin sightseeing on Saturday. My usual route is: Republic Square, Knez Mihailova, the Kalemegdan fortress, National Assembly and the Town Hall and St. Sava’s Temple. But, we got only to Knez Mihailova and then we felt an urge to enter every single store and thus, sightseeing turned into shopping around. Plus, it started raining and we had to meet Ivana for a coffee so we sat at Choco Café and happily ate a delicious chocolate fondue. What I really like about Yanin is her outgoingness and the lack of reservation. After only 10 minutes, Ivana and she were talking as if they had known each other for years. I felt so relaxed and completely blissful at that moment – I had just finished shopping and I was sitting with my two dear friends, eating a chocolate fondue, not counting the calories and the day was not over yet.


Insomnia was the next on the list, of course. Dunja, who is simply irreplaceable when it’s time to go to there joined us. As usual, we had one of the best tables at the bar and the best waiter and when the inevitable Melon tinis arrived, we suddenly resembled a Sex-and-the-city scene: there we were, just three us of, dressed in fancy clothes, sitting in the poshest bar in the city, sipping cocktails, taking photos, chattering, warming up for the gig of the so-much-talked-about-by-me “Magic Beans” band. When it comes to this band, they have never failed me, so I did not worry about a thing. Furthermore, it was even better than I had planned because some of my friends that I had not planned, decided to join, so instead of 4 people, there were 8 of us. That’s spontaneity.

I have been to these gigs lots of times and we always say after it that it had been the best night ever. But, last weekend with Yanin, Dunja, Nina, Ivana, Jovana, Milos, Sandra and later on, Marko & co. was absolutely, utterly, completely, definitely the most brilliant, superb and the most awesome night out – The band played even better than usual, we all danced and sang, we stepped on the dance floor first and we burnt it! I will never forget how happy I felt at the moment – not so much because of me, but because Yanin was having the time of her life, she was glowing, the smile on her face was unforgettable and she looked she could fly any second. I could never have imagined it would be so great. We asked for a Lady Gaga’s song and when the band fulfilled our wish, seeing Yanin, I felt proud of living in a city where your dreams come true. The gig ended around three, but by this time, we had already wasted so much energy that we only had enough strength to call the cab and go home. I actually presented Yanin as my special guest, who came here all the way from Thailand and people saw her as a princess. She was the star of the evening.


Sunday came and with it, a special family lunch. As suggested by my mum, she made traditional Balkan delicacy called “sarma”. I was a bit doubtful about this, but I promise I will never ever doubt my mum’s suggestions. Not only did Yanin ate it, but she did it with such a satisfaction that just looking at her made our hearts glow (Oh, forgot to mention that she even had one sarma when he got home from the club, although it was only half-cooked). I am not telling how much she had for lunch, but have to mention that she spent the next 3 hours in bed. And, although she still did not feel totally well on Monday, she had more sarma for breakfast…and lunch. My mum was so happy, that I think she is going to talk about this for months.

Monday was Yanin’s last day here and I was determined to take her sightseeing. Again spontaneously and without planning Dunja, Nina and Marko N. decided to join and, instead of taking the girl to see the Kalemegdan fortress or St. Sava’s temple, the hallmarks of Belgrade, we took her to try the best pizza in the world, at Bucko’s. It was followed by the unique plasma-shake at Insomnia and then it was already time to go home and take Yanin to the central station. The most spontaneous and the best thing happened then – since I persuaded Dunja not to go to the Uni and instead have coffee with us, she couldn’t go back to the Uni or home, so I suggested going with me to see Yanin off – this idea also seemed interesting to Nina and when we also talked Marko into going with us, rather than going back home to write an essay, we made a group hug, jumped around, making Nina’s special “uapa” sounds, to express our joy – unforgettable moment.

We arrived at my place and we, the locals, ate some cake, sitting at the table and watching Yanin eating sarma. She was magical, almost surreal. I think none of us will ever forget this moment.


Then, came the sad moment – when Yanin entered the train and we stood at the platform. I am usually very sad when I have to return home from abroad, but never have I been so sad when I was seeing someone off. It was so touching when Dunja, Marko and I were standing there and Yanin was singing the tune from Thai national anthem. It was a magical moment and I was on the verge off tears. The train left Belgrade, exactly at 21:25 and we started shouting good-byes, jumping, waving, telling her to come back as soon as possible.

You have to meet Yanin to understand why I miss her so much. She is charming, cute, fun, outgoing, generous, energetic. She radiates positive energy. My family adores her, my friends are all missing her (Nina’s sadly “uoaping” without Yanin, Dunja didn’t mind freezing to see her off, Marko didn’t care about his essay). She can heal you – she recharged my batteries for months, I haven’t felt so purely happy, without any specific reason, for a long time. She made such a positive impression on all of us. I will never be able to eat sarma, hear a Lady Gaga’s song without, eat curry, think of Budapest, without thinking of her.


I am still happy because she lives very close to Belgrade and I am quite sure I will see her soon. Besides, I have adopted her, so she's a part of our big, happy family!!

Beer Fest and handsome boys

August, 2010 - Every year, around my B-day, there is a beer festival in Belgrade. It is always much anticipated by everyone (mostly men), since there are free concerts, masses of people and liters and liters of all kinds of beer at low prices at one place. What more could one ask for? However, I cannot remember when I was there last, expect from this year, of course. I know that last year I was not even interested in going, the one before I was in Italy, etc. But, this year I knew I would be in the city and since it coincided with my birthday, I decided to visit it and to organize my party there – and, oh boy, was it a brilliant choice!!!

The festival opened on Wednesday and the same day my dear friends, Yanin& Robert, arrived in Belgrade. My initial plan was to take them out to a fancy place, but Robert asked me if we could go to the Festival and how could I say “no” to my guests? So, swapping the high heels and an elegant dress with casual clothes and flip-flops, off we went to Usce – a vast open-air area, just next to the confluence of the Sava and the Danube. The starry sky and cool weather (and me being able to find a nice parking place!) made the event even better. So, arriving to the venue, Yanin, Robert, my school-friend Olja and me made our way to the stand with the best flavored beer in the world – Black Turtle Pub. Now, at this point I have to mention that I did not expect anything of the festival – I was only there because of my friends, the beer and the music. Boys-watching was not even the last item on my agenda – the idea that I might see a handsome male did not even cross my mind. But, the best things in life are unplanned and come spontaneously. So, after 20 minutes, I realized something was strange - the beer and the music were not on the top on my “pleasure list” any more. I observed, as did some other girls, single and with boyfriends, that there is abundance of young, good-looking guys around. As one of my friends pointed out:” Despite the crowd, I find it difficult to watch where I’m going, there’s too much distraction!”. Passing next to a girl, I head her saying:” Oh, Jesus, I wish I was single!”. And they were totally right. Everywhere around, left, right, behind, in front there were simple, causally-dressed, relaxed, smiling men, drinking beer and obviously doing the same things as us – checking out girls. I am sure that they were also very pleasantly surprised –although beer-drinking is not considered lady-like in Belgrade, there was a lot of cute and enthusiastic girls, too.

My next evening at the Fest was Friday – and again, I wished my neck could rotate for 360°, I nearly tripped and fell down for several times, spilled my beer on myself and someone else and could not stop grinning – it’s impossible to push through the crowd where something catches your attention all the time. Here, I must pause and say that, the guys who were with me that evening were also good-looking and nice, as well as my female friends, so there must have been people jealous of us – I’ve never been modest!

Anyway, my point is NOT that the Festival was great just because of lovely, young people all around. What I want to know is – where, oh, where do they go when it is NOT Beer Festival? Seriously, I go to lots of places, but never (at least not so recently that I can remember!) did I see so many attractive men (here, I must say “men”, otherwise people might think I’ve turned lesbian!) at one place. Just as so you know, I DO NOT go out in order to admire guys, but when there is such a large number of a desirable specimen at one place, it cannot go unnoticed. Just a few days ago, I went to Insomnia, the “hot-spot” of sexy people. Nothing. Seriously. There was not a single man that caught my eye. (OK, OK, maybe just one, but he’s too old and too snobbish for me). The only man I whose attention I was trying to draw was the waiter!

So, my crucial question is: WHERE do beautiful people go out? Do they go out at all? In which hole do they hide before and after mid-August? Are their extraterrestrials? If they are, what planet do they live on?

I’ve come to one important conclusion – not only Serbian girls are impossibly hot, as the general opinion is. We can also brag with the beauty of our men. A few of my foreign, straight AND gay friends, have asked me:” Maya, what do so gorgeous Serbian girls see in these fat, bald, sturdy men who wear shorts, sneakers and wife-beater shirts when they go out? Why are Serbian girls so stunning and guys are so…plain?” I could not give them a better answer than the most diplomatic ones “Not everything is about physical appearance” and “It’s all about chemistry”.

However, they were wrong and so was I – Serbian men are not plain. They are not unattractively bald- they have sexy gray hairs in Clooney’s style and even if they are bald, it’s the Bruce Willis’s kind of baldness – totally awesome! They are not fat- they are tall, muscular and well-built. They are not metrosexuals– they are a sport nation and dress accordingly. They simply do not go to the places I go to.

In conclusion, Serbian men are equally gorgeous as Serbian girls. But, the lingering, mysterious and puzzling question is – where do they hide?

Maya's Belgrade

July, 2010 -

Being a local and having lived here for 27 years anything I say about Belgrade can sound subjective. But, although it is not my favourite city in the world, I cannot but not love it. And when you love someone or something, it is difficult to be reserved and not try to say all the best.

I will try, as I always do, to give you a picture about my city that will inspire you to visit it.

Belgrade is not a beautiful city, such as Prague, Florence or Paris. Do not expect to see some spectacular sights, magnificent buildings, picturesque sceneries, romantic castles and impressive churches. There are some places worth seeing, of course.

Belgrade was founded by Celtic tribes in 3rd century BC, then overtaken by the Romans, to be ruled by the Ottoman for 500 years, Austrians, etc. It has risen from the ashes like a Phoenix for 38 times. Such a various mix of culture and influences left a very distinct trace. There is The Kalemegdan fortress, rising above the confluence of the Sava and the Danube which was the inspiration for the ancient name of the city – Singidunum Although there are no scientific evidence for that, according to one version “singi” means “confluence” and “dunum” means “town, settlement”. The Fortress was mostly influenced by the Ottomans and is today “Belgrade’s Central Park”. It is located in the very center of the city and is the favourite place of old people who are keen on chess, young and old couples strolling holding hands, enthusiastic foreigners with cameras and everyone who wants to escape from the concrete jungle.

The path to Kalemegdan takes you through the main pedestrian zone, the promenade, Knez Mihailova Street. Only when I started looking at the city with the eyes of a tourist, did I realize how majestic the buildings in this street were. There are splendid façades, lovely balconies and small ornamental statues. At the center of the street, there is a fountain/ tap with fresh, ice-cold water, the perfect refreshment at Belgrade’s summer 35°C. Moreover, if you are a shopaholic, you will find this street the Mecca, because all the main fashion stores are located here. Also, fans of eccentric and big hand-made jewelry will be able to find some interesting pieces for less than 5€.

In my opinion, the most prominent hallmark of Belgrade is St. Sava’s Temple. Named after the youngest son of the first Serbian king from 12th century, who went on to become a priest, founded first Serbian schools, obtained the autonomy of Serbian Orthodox Church and was declared a Saint after the death, the Temple is the second largest Orthodox edifice in the world. Raised at the place where, according to the legend, the Ottoman burnt the remaining of St. Sava, at the heart of Vracar municipality, it overlooks Belgrade, shines upon it with its whiteness and protects it. The white marble of the walls is especially distinctive at night, when the Temple is illuminated - it radiates and can be seen from almost every part if the city. When you stand in front of its 79 m high dome, it has almost a soothing effect, reminds you just how small you are and you cannot help but feel a kind of awe. However, entering the Temple is somewhat disillusioning since it has not been finished yet and looks like a construction side. Nevertheless, there are some frescos and mosaics worth seeing, as well as the look at the highest point of its massive dome from the center of the Temple.

All the above-mentioned as well as Bohemian zone called Skadarlija, Zemun, part of the city across the Danube in Austro-Hungarian style, the newly built tower at Avala Mt., numerous other churches, Kosutnjak and Zvezdara forests and various other places of culture are all important and interesting but are not Belgrade’s hallmarks. Belgrade is not most famous for something which you can see – but for something you can experience – the entertainment. To be more precise – the nightlife.

I cannot determine exactly why this aspect is so important for Belgraders or when Belgrade became the party capital of the Balkans (maybe even Europe). Even in the notorious times of the isolation of the 90s, the time of wars and sanctions, the locals used to go out and have fun. It may be some sort of a safety valve for all the bad and difficult things people experienced. And it has never lacked the variety – whether you are a fan of techno, rock, house, metal, Latino or Serbian folk music, you can very easily find your place in the city. Of course, after the sanctions, when the standard was so-and-so increased the nightlife has started to flourish. Foreigners often ask me why most Belgrade cafes, bars, restaurants or clubs are so posh and extravagantly furnished and why people dress up so much when they go out. Again, it may be the need to go to beautiful places and to look beautifully so as to compensate for a lack. Whatever the answer is, one thing is a fact – if you are into clubbing, Belgrade will not disappoint you.

The tradition of coffee drinking is quite prominent and important in Belgrade. People will invite you out for a coffee at any time of the day, but it does not necessarily mean you will have a cup of coffee. Likewise, do not be surprised to see fancy dressed people drinking an espresso at a café at 11pm. It’s quite a common thing here. Belgraders love cafes. If there is a café on the ground floor of a building you can be sure that its residents won’t bother having a coffee or a drink at their homes. People like to be served. Going out to a café with a friend, even with a family member, is the way to relax and catch up on with them. Most Belgrade bars and cafes are grouped by locations: the ones in Obilicev venac (near Knez Mihailova St.), at Ada lake, in Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra St., in Strahinjica Bana St. (aka Silicon Valley), etc. Which one you will chose depends on various factors: the time of the day, who you are going with, the occasion, amount of money, your style, the reason why you are going out at all. For example, if you want to have a chat with your best friend or watch a football game, one of many cafes at Obilicev venac would be the best choice. If you want to have a drink, overlooking the lake and maybe even sunbathe a little, go to one of the beach bars at Ada lake.

If you want to show off your newest dress, see some posh people and be seen yourself – then the Silicon Valley is the place for you. The street got the nickname according to rich people who go there and the girls with silicon enhancements that go with them (when the trend became popular is still a mystery to me!). During the day, the cafes and the people seen at this location do not stand out. But, when the night falls, things are quite different – all of a sudden there are tough looking guys in Ferraris, BMWs, Mercedes Benz, Porches, girls who look as if they had come out a Vogue cover, elegant and trendy clothes that some foreigners would only wear for a wedding and of course – high heels. Remember this – if you are a girl, high heels are inevitable, a must. You do not go out in flat shoes or flip-flops.

One of my favourite bars in the area is Insomnia. I love the place because of the service (the most charming and the most polite waiters in the city), the cocktails (made only of the best booze) and the music (there’s even a DJ). Some of the people I took there told me they had never seen so many beautiful, shiny people at one place. They wandered why all the girls wore fancy clothes. Is there a reason to that? No. It’s simple, when you want to look good and wear something nice, but you do not have an occasion, and if you want people to look at you and admire you – just go to Insomnia. Nobody will think you’ve overdone it. However, do not go if you want to talk with a friend – the music is usually too loud and there’s too much distraction – Insomnia is the place to look around. Superficial – yes. Boring – definitely no. Even if you’re not into these kinds of places, they are unique and unlikely to be found anywhere else. So, when you come to Belgrade do not miss a chance to go to a Silicon Valley café/ bar. Who knows – you might even like it.

If, on the other hand, you would like to have a quality time with your friends, relax and enjoy the sight of the Danube and have quite delicious fast food some of the rafts near “25 Maj Sport Center”, very close and yet, so distant from the center, will suit you. “Wooloomooloo” would be a good choice – suitable in winter time, too, but definitely more enjoyable in summer –comfy chairs in the shade, very close to the river, various menu with ice-delicacies, club sandwiches and savoury / sweet pancakes are ideal for a lazy Sunday afternoon, in you look for to escape the heat of the center.

As the name says, “Supermarket Concept Store”, this place is more than a regular café. Also located in the “Silicon Valley” Street, previously it was a supermarket, but even now, it has partially stayed one – it is a spacious area, decorated in a futurist-minimal style, offering a variety of interesting gadgets (a rainbow maker), useful and decorative kitchen instruments (cutlery in shape of hearts, stars, etc), books in English, CDs, designer shoes and watches, clothes made by local, young fashion designers, etc. It also includes a hairdresser, a flower shop, a spa, and, of course, a café/ restaurant. Many exotic dishes can be found on the menu – sushi, Asian and Italian cuisine, expensive wines, tasty smoothies, interesting cocktails and delicious desserts. The fact that totally distinguishes this café from the others is that it is relaxed but trendish, modern and popular – there is an air of typical young, busy, urban, successful Belgraders, who seem not to be interested in what they are wearing, (although it is always smart and expensive) and, at the same time, it is greatly visited by foreigners with sophisticated taste and businessmen mostly due to a free wi-fi connection and the healthy menu. When I enter “Supermarket” I think “Sex and the City”.The prices are average, many a bit more on the expensive side. Once or twice a month, the place hosts gigs, fashion shows, product promotions. The proof how “different” and contemporary this place is, is that it is dog-friendly, which is very, very rare for Belgrade. There is also a big, sun-umbrellas covered terrace, ideal for lazy summer afternoons. ( www.supermarket.rs )

There are very few pubs in Belgrade, but my favourite one is indisputably “Black Turtle Pub”. There are several of them, but the one closest to the center is located near the Kalemegdan Fortress, in Kosancicev Venac Street. The thing that makes it unique are flavored beers which are served – blueberry, forest strawberry and lemon. This is another place that literally everyone I have taken there likes. Not so much because of the delicious beer, but due to the entire atmosphere of the place – relaxed, casual, easy-going – a total opposite to Silicon Valley places. It’s usually on my agenda for relaxing Sunday evenings, when I want to have good beer and hear and tell all the gossips and events from a wild Saturday night. It’s great both in summer and winter time and, fortunately for all girls, mostly visited by men! ( www.theblackturtle.com )

And now we’re coming to the most important part – clubbing. Being the party capital, the city offers various parties on almost every day of the week – however, Friday and Saturday are peak times. As I mentioned before, fans of all types of music will surely find their own place, though, if you’re a fan of electronic, mostly house music, then the crazy time is guaranteed.

Belgrade clubs are divided by seasons, to winter ones and summer ones. One important thing you need to know if that almost all Belgrade clubs are quite small. The reason is not the lack of empty places, but the fact that the crowdier a club seems, the more people will want to get it – the longer the queue outside, the more popular the club is. Simple.

One of the most popular clubs, especially interesting to foreigners, but not my favourite, is definitely “Mr. Stefan Brown”. Named by a “mysterious” Mr. Brown, the club has been the second home of Belgrade’s shiny, fancy people for a long time. Most clubs are popular only for a season or two, but not this one. Located on the 9th floor of a building, which can be reached only by an elevator that opens right into the club, the glass walls offer a magnificent view on the Government building and Belgrade Central Station. One of its characteristics is definitely a long bar, which stretches through the club – there are not seats or VIP booths here – the best place is at the bar. Seductive barmen will offer all kinds of cocktails, but not in a dull, ordinary way – one of them will probably climb on the bar and pour cocktail in your mouth from a plastic tube. Or they place a series multi-coloured shot drinks on the bar, sprinkle it with sugar or cinnamon and set the entire bar on fire. All in all, everything revolves about the bar – it is a place to put your drink on, to recline on, to lick a cocktail from and, naturally, to dance on. When the amount of alcohol in your blood increases and the atmosphere gets hotter, the madness starts. All of a sudden, you’ll see random girls being pulled up on the bar by the barmen, sprayed with water or foam, pieces of clothes will fall off, music will get louder. Barmen will participate, climbing on the bar themselves, jumping like monkeys from one side of the bar to another, offering you more and more drinks. The party here lasts until the dawn and one of the most popular nights is Monday, which is specific for “VIP parties” – more or less (un)known celebrities serve your drinks and money is raised for charity. Who says there’s not a good side of a sin?

So, if you want to experience a wild night in MSB, remember few facts: if you do not have a reservation for a bar place, you will be pushed by the crowd all night long, which can be extremely annoying. Dress up nicely, because if the bouncers do not like you’re style – you’ll stay out. Get drunk – it’s the only way to fit in. And one tip for girls – the less clothes (even when it’s -15°C outside) the better.

Another popular winter place is Plastic/ Mint. It is situated in the basement of Faculty of Mining and Geology in the center of the city and is open only on Fridays and Saturdays. The type of music is the same as in most clubs – house, but from time to time it hosts international DJs which is the only time when there is an entrance fee. Since the entrance to most clubs in free, reservation is obligatory. However, if you also want to have a table or a booth, then you have to be prepared to buy at least one bottle of vodka/ tequila/ whiskey, etc. The place is interesting because there are 2 clubs in the same place. Lovers of commercial house music and dancing will enjoy in Plastic, while the ones who prefer a more relaxed atmosphere and quieter music will find Mint better – you can always “walk around”, spending some time in Plastic and some time in Mint.

“Tube” is surely the place that tourists love most, because it is quite spacious and unusual. As the name suggests, it looks like a tube and it is divided into several areas – there is the dance floor, the bar-room and a room with seats, where the music is always a little quieter, so it’s ideal for mingling and chatting. Wide screens showing abstract and avant-garde videos and walls of glass and mirror give this club the “spaceship” feeling and I was also told by some Brits that it reminded London clubs. It is a bit posh, but not in a bad way and the visitors are mostly 25+. No reservation is necessary, but you might have to queue. Although the club is officially opened at 12am you should not go before 2am and you definitely should not leave before 5am. ( www.thetube.rs )

The most luxurious and high-class club in Belgrade is definitely “Magacin” (Warehouse). As the name suggests, it is located at the bank of the Sava River, in old warehouses, which were turned into an ostentatious club. The prices are over the top, the entrance is guaranteed only if you had previously reserved a table (with a bottle of booze, of course) and if you are expensively dressed. The “face control” in front of the club is rigorous and not even a group of 5 good-looking girls can enter if they do not satisfy the scrutinizing eye of the main bouncer. If you are wearing typical touristy clothes, and do not have a reservation do not even bother trying to enter this place. If you are lucky, and you are let in without a reservation, make sure you have at least 20€ to spend, because the prices are ridiculously expensive. Moreover, this is a place for posturing, not dancing, so do not expect to dance all night long. Just put on your nice, expensive clothes, look totally bored (because boredom is a sigh that you are so rich that nothing can draw your attention any more),look down on everyone and you’ll fit in.

In the last 2-3 years, live gigs have become increasingly popular in Belgrade – non-affirmed 5-6 member bands, usually with female lead singers, that sing popular music – rock, pop, Latino, house, mainstream hits, etc. The most popular is definitely Macao Band, while my choice would be The Magic Beans. They usually play at Club “Scandal” on Saturdays. The set list is long and you could rarely hear them playing the same songs every weekend. In the summer time, I suggest going to “Bitef Art Café” , because different bands are playing all the time and they’re extremely good! These kinds of events are more relaxed, you don’t have to dress up too much, the prices are acceptable and good atmosphere is guaranteed, especially if you like dancing. If you have 2 weekends to spend in Belgrade, definitely visit one of these gigs at least one night.

Regarding some underground clubs, I am not an expert, really. Though, I know that if you are fond of metal/ gothic/ hard core music, “KST” is popular. It is located in the basement of Technical University and is a total dive. There is a small entrance fee, around 1€ and the drinks are cheap too. No need to mention that the only dress code is – do not wear anything nice. ( www.kst.etf.rs )

As for summer clubs, “splavs”, that is, rafts, are the best option. There are a lot of them, mostly on the Sava River and they are reserved for urban house music, while the ones at the Danube, near Hotel “Jugoslavija” are for the ones who are keen on Serbian live music and are even open during the winter season.

Of many “splavs” at the Sava, I can only separate one – “Sound’– it was the first one that opened, in 1994 and has always been the best place for non-commercial, but still popular, house music. The raft overlooks Belgrade Fortress and the view is especially magnificent in the dawn. The reason this is the only summer club I visit is the music, in the first place. The club sometimes hosts international DJs, and the entrance is usually free of charge. The place has its groovy-urban-chic charm, there is something about it that differentiate it from other “splavs” at this area. Having been a regular member there for more than 3 years, I’ve got to know the waiters, the DJ, the bouncers, even the manager of the club. It’s the place that all of the people I took there loved. So, if you are in Belgrade in summer, do not go anywhere else – come to “Sound” and you’ll definitely love it at the first sight. Another reason why this place is so loved by Belgraders is that you can wear what you like. If you feel like dressing up, you can do it, if you feel like going in a pair of jeans, a T-shirt and flat shoes, you can do it, too. However, tourists can always be recognized -by wearing flip-flops. So, dress nicely if you want to blend in. (www.belgradesound.com)

Nearby, there is an old freight ship, called “Povetarac” (Breeze). It is loved by tourists, because there is no dress code (you’re free to wear flip-flops) and it offers alternative music, such aS drum-and-base, hip-hop, indie etc. It is also open in the winter time; however, it is in the inside of the ship and is very stuffy. In the summer time, the party is on the deck and I guess this is what makes it so attractive and unique. The view is naturally outstanding and the prices are low.

Some other popular places in the summer are hundreds of clubs/bars at Ada Lake. They offer various kinds of music, ranging from Latino, Serbian folk music to the inevitable house. The good side is that they are all next to each other, so it’s easy to “club hop” and the entrance is free of charge. On the other hand, it might be difficult to find a parking space or to get there by bus after 12 o’clock. Unlike Sound, which is visited mostly by 25+, Ada bars are loved by younger people. However, if you are a fan of loud music beach parties, give Ada a go.

There are also some cocktail bars I’d like to mention. For example, “Bar Central” or “Informbiro” which are situated near Knez Mihailova Street. The charming and flirtatious waiters will offer various cocktails according to their recipe and will make them in front of you, boastfully flipping bottles in the air, juggling the glasses, garnishing them with cherries or cream. Another popular summer cocktail bar is “Crveni Petao” (Red Rooster), almost on Knez Mihailova Street itself. It’s very popular with Belgrade “elite” and many celebrities can often be seen. It is literally located on a small ‘island” in the center of the street, overcast by dense treetops. It is a bit ostentations and pricey but unusual and tasty cocktails will make up for it.

I came to the end of my offer. There are, of course, thousands other places I could mention, but this is a short, personal selection of places I like and that my foreign friends like. I was recently told by a foreigner who lives here that Belgrade nightlife was good, but overrated. He might be right – everybody has different taste and preferences. Nevertheless, if you are keen on café-cruising or bar-hopping and if you like exuberant, loud, fancy, pretentious, luxurious, crowdie but above all, positive energy and atmosphere places and where people are always in the mood for partying, do visit Belgrade. If you are even so lucky as to stumble upon me and I offer you to be your clubbing hostess, then Belgrade will definitely be a place you will gladly and impatiently visit again.